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Decah VDC Installation Instructions
Here's a copy of the basic installation instructions
sent along with every Decah kit.
** For custom
installations see NOTES FOR CUSTOM INSTALLATIONS at the bottom of this
section. If you follow the pictures on our site and these instructions, what
sounds complicated over the phone is actually a very straight forward and
uncomplicated installation.
It is suggested that this conversion
is done using two or more persons. However, it is also recommended that this
conversion is done by a professional automotive/body technician. We cannot
be held responsible for improperly installed VDC units.
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1. Remove the fender. |
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2. Open door and
disconnect door checker from chassis. Close door. This pushes the door
checker into the door and out of the way. You can secure checker with
tape, however it should not be necessary. Disconnect the battery. |
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3. Remove rubber base of
wire harness from chassis. Disconnect wire harness from door. |
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4. Splice in extension
wires. Suggestions: Splice in wires behind, (on the chassis side) the
rubber base. Crimping tool recommended. |
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5. After splicing is
complete, reinstall rubber base of harness into chassis upside down.
Check your connections. Make sure no wires are exposed. Reinstall
harness connector into door. |
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6. Check that all your
door's power accessories are working. For this, you must temporarily
reconnect the battery. Keep battery disconnected until install is
complete. Once again, disconnect wire harness from door. Use
electrical tape to tightly secure and cover the wire extensions and
harness wires. Reinstall harness connector into door. |
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7. Remove the stock
hinges. Have someone hold the door to maintain the door's position
until the VDC is securely in place. Attach the VDC to the chassis and
door. DO NOT COMPLETELY TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Check the VDC diagram
for bolt and washer configuration recommendation. Make sure the door
is aligned properly, checking gaps between the door and the rest of
the body. This is an important step in assuring proper fit of a closed
door. Once you have achieved the proper fit, tighten the door and
chassis bolts securely. Once again check for proper door fit.
NOTE: Your door no longer has the full range of horizontal
motion. Be sure to take special care in remembering this for the
future. |
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8. INSTALLING THE
SPRING: Have a friend hold the door in the open and up position for
you. Put the spring into the spring perch as shown above. Hold the
spring by the body and align the spring's rod threads with the
internal threads in the base of the end fitting. The end fitting
should be screwed in as close to the arm as possible still allowing
for 90 degree of end fitting movement. Screw the rod completely into
the end fitting, holding the spring by the body. While doing this it
is recommended that the spring be free of pressure from the door's
weight. Make sure that whoever is holding the door for you does not
allow the weight of the door to rest on the spring until the spring
rod is completely screwed in. This makes it easier to screw in. Put
the cotter pin through the small hole at the base of the spring and
open the cotter pin ends. Check your work. Make sure all screws are
secure and your harness is intact.
Now you must adjust the door for sag. This is
done by opening the door 2 to 3 inches horizontally away from the
body. (You will notice the door sags downward at the end opposite the
VDC). Use the sag adjusted screw to adjust the door until no sag
remains and the door opens and closes in it's new range of horizontal
motion without interruption as well as providing a properly fitting
closed door. Use a hex key to adjust the sag screw. Once you have
adjusted the sag adjusted screw properly, use thread lock adhesive to
lock the sage adjusted screw in place. Once again, check the door by
opening and closing it's new limited range of horizontal motion. If
necessary repeat the sag adjustment step. |
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9. INNER FENDER ROLL:
For clearance reasons, the inner fender should be rolled as follows
(tin snips are recommended for this procedure). Snip inner fender tab
at start point 2" to 2.5", (50.8mm to 63.5mm) below inner fenders tab
top. When snipping, leave approximately 1/8" (3mm} space between the
end of your snip and the fold of the inner fender tab. This allows
enough room for component clearance as well as maintaining some form
of structural rigidity to the fender. Make snips in approximate 1"
(25.4mm) intervals down to just below the area where the VDC arm would
interfere with the fender. Use your fingers, (no tools), to fold the
1" (25.4mm) snipped tabs that you have created, to the inner surface
of the fender. Be
careful of sharp edges!
Now your inner fender is
rolled. Depending on the amount of corrective door sag and fender to
door spacing, you may need to slot the fender molding, (if any), slots
and push the molding forward to keep it from being clipped when
opening and closing the door. The Decah alternative to slotting the
slots is to use the real carbon fiber, (one left and one right)
molding replacements, (only available for the 1996-2000 Honda Civic.)
Remove fender molding then clean the fender surface, peel the label
and place the carbon fiber molding replacements in place. Repeat steps
1-9 to install the VDC on the other door. Reinstall the fenders and
connect battery.
YOU ARE NOW VERTICAL! |
** NOTES FOR CUSTOM INSTALLATIONS
Basically follow the steps
as above for a standard installation. The major difference is going to be
in the mounting of the kit to the car. In some cases the kit will have
mounting holes that do not line up with the car and will need to be
realigned either by elongating the existing holes, adding extra holes or
drilling all new holes so that the kit mounting holes now match the car. In
the case of welded hinges on the stock car, the stock hinges will have to be
removed and the kit will have to be welded in place. The major concern in
mounting the kit on a custom installation is that the kit must be mounted
FLAT and perfectly vertical. This can be accomplished in many ways. In
some instances there are ribs on the car that need to be flattened. In
other cases the kit would need to be shimmed to be flat and vertical. This
can be done with washers or body shims. For some vehicles it becomes easier
to flatten an area on the pillar so that the kit is mounted flat. If using
the heavy-duty kit, you may want to shave where the kit mounts to the door.
The heavy-duty kit is very beefy and some installations will be easier if
the bracket that mounts to the door is trimmed a little to fit. We supply
you with a kit that is heavy enough to allow a lot of flexibility in
installation.
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